Along the Cook Inlet coast, this remote patch of country near Iliamna Bay could become a giant industrial port for Pebble Mine. McKittrick walked and paddled this coast in 2013, with her husband, mother, and two small children. Photo by Erin McKittrick.

The wind pushed us in a stumble-dance across the tundra, past ground-clutching alders and stubby ice-scoured spruce. Two friends and I followed the line that scrolled across our GPS, imagining a road. I imagined trucks rumbling…

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